‘Every Culinary Artist Must Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.